Rip Current and backwash examples

Saw this whilst exploring some coast I’m not as familiar with as I’d like. Great example of a rip current and a strong backwash.

The biggest danger here are actually wave surges up the beach and the backwash. Dog walkers or walkers not paying attention, getting knocked over fully dressed and rolling down the beach! If you look at the conditions, it’s unlikely anyone would pop in for a swim…and if you did, the 4-6 foot shorebreak, breaking in 6 inches of water would be your main concern. The rip currents only go out just past the breaking waves…so are actually fairly tame…in isolation.

Rip currents are bodies of water that find themselves above sea level. In this example, a wave having flown up the beach. Once above sea level, the laws of gravity will dictate that this body of water returns to sea level. The body of water in question will naturally find the path of least resistance. On the video (although you can’t see it), there is a stream on the far right, flowing into the sea. This stream gauges a channel out of the beach and creates a natural flow of water into the sea… so you find a rip current here. The slopes either side of the stream encourage the water to flow down hill and the sea water joins the stream and flows out nice and easy. In the middle of the frame you see another rip current. The beach slopes into a slight valley (in the middle of the beach) and the water again, flows down the side of this ‘valley’ and out. The more water that does this, the more this valley has sand carried out with the current and the deeper this ‘valley’ becomes.

*There are actually 3 rip currents just in frame, one on the near side…but I didn’t want to make this article too confusing. You wouldn’t normally get 3 rip currents so close together but there is such a mass of water flowing up the beach with the swell and the beach is so steep, that the water returns back out to sea at high speed…if the waves were breaking further out, some of this energy would disperse naturally on the way in.

Spotting a rip current at Perranuthnoe Beach

In this blog post we look at a straight forward rip current at Perranuthnoe Beach, in west Cornwall. Generally, with no swell Perranuthnoe can be a very safe beach to swim at. However, add a few waves and it can be quite the opposite. They do have lifeguards for the 6 peak weeks of the summer. As you can see in this example. As well as rip on the west side of the beach, there was also a diagonal rip on the east side.

Now in this example, the rip runs from around waist height in the water, right out just past the breaking waves. It runs near the headland. Rips will often run along headlands, harbour walls, rocky surfaces, as the smooth rock offers less resistance and the water flowing back out to ‘sea level’ will always follow the path of least resistance.

What this video does highlight very well and this is generally the case…is that you rarely find rip currents where there is a consistent breaking wave. This is because the depth of the sand creates the waves…whereas rip currents tend to dredge water off the bottom as the water flows out and this creates a deeper channel. This is why waves don’t break in rips. In some instances, they will break further out and then peter out as the wave travels over the deeper section of rip current. This video demonstrates this very well.

Rip Current awareness / Identification

So I popped across to Praa Sands today, as there was a decent swell, with the aim of getting footage of a rip current. Today was a lovely January day, just after a storm…so plenty of swell around.

Now this isn’t your text book rip current and that’s what I like about it. Most rip diagrams show you a perfectly formed rip, running at 90 degrees to the beach. More often than not, rips don’t follow this pattern. They come in all kinds of weird and wonderful shapes and can change shape and strength, depending on the conditions, tidal movement etc.

In this instance, you have a deep(er) ‘trough’ and diagonal rip current which leads onto a shallower bank, where some waves are breaking. This wouldn’t be the worst rip in the world for swimmers, as it would simply push you down the beach (from right to left), onto a shallower bank…where you should be able to get in fairly easily. *It would be more of a problem for children and poor swimmers, as it would carry them out of their depth fairly quickly and induce panic. It would also carry you into the bigger waves, which again can cause panic and issues for less experienced swimmers.

In this example, had the tide been 15-20m higher, this rip current would be much stronger and would lead it’s victims out just past the breaking waves, into deeper water. It’s also worth bearing in mind that if the tide was 20-30m further out (towards low tide), this rip current would simply be dry sand and wouldn’t cause any problems at all. Be aware that rip and their position do change with the tide. The position of rip current on a beach between high and low tide for example, can be very different.

Swim Safety & Planning

We teach a water safety and rip current awareness courses in the early and late summer season and one of the principles we teach is the following - rips and currents don’t typically drown swimmers…it’s the panic that causes the problem. It’s the individual losing their composure and doing something irrational, like ditching the surf board they’ve been safely lying on and trying to swim in against a rip current…or simply swimming against the same rip for so long that they become exhausted and start to really struggle.

So……planning a swim. You don’t necessarily need to plan your swim, especially if it’s your regular swim and you have a good idea of the conditions. If however, you decide to swim somewhere new, come up with a plan.

Your considerations need to include :

• the state of the tide. Coming in, going out, springs, neaps…typically best swimming on an incoming tide, with minimal tidal movement (neap tide). Particularly if it’s your first swim at that location.

• Lateral movement. Most of the advice we’ll give is based around the sort of conditions that we experience here in Cornwall. In other areas of the country/world you can get strong lateral movement (ie the current runs parallel to the shore), so factor this in and do your research.

• PLAN your route, with an exit strategy. Then come up with a plan B. As mentioned previously, panic can be a big problem. If you can’t get to exit A, you’ll then simply resort to plan B with minimal fuss. That might be an exit further up a beach, around to the next cove…or return to where you entered the water…

• I’ll briefly mention the basics - swimming buddy/spotter, high visibility (tow float etc), you can take a mobile phone with you in a case (test and ensure it’ll get reception). You could also look at something like an EPIRB or personal locator beacon. At the time of writing, they’ll set you back around £200-300 but they use satellite, rather than reception and pin point your exact location. So are awesome, particularly if you want to swim somewhere remote. Might be well worth the purchase if you swim with a big group and are all happy to chip in.

• If you do experience a strong current I’d suggest the following. Stay calm. Think your way out of the problem. If you can’t move forward because of a current, can you go back the way you came or swim to the side and avoid the current? When talking about rip currents, they’re never typically that wide and only generally go out to the back of the breaking waves. So moving to the side of a rip and swimming in without huge resistance is fairly straight forward.

• We have a fantastic coastal rescue service. If you’ve exhausted all other options start waving and shouting for help. It may be embarrassing but the RNLI will have no issues picking up a swimmer in distress. Nearly everyone has a mobile phone these days and someone will more than likely spot you and call for help…this then brings me onto one of my final points.

• If you are attempt a new route or swimming at a new place avoid an early morning or evening swim. If you did get in trouble it’d be far better that people were present and could call for help. Also, if you’re losing light and it starts to get dark, you could be in real trouble!

• Lifeguards are a great resource. If unsure ask. You can also make lifeguards aware of your plans.

• Research, if you do any research make sure you use a reliable source. If you ask a question on say….a social media group, you don’t know who’s responding and their level of experience. I’ve lifeguarded and provided water safety for nearly two decades and quite honestly, am so fed up with people arguing with my advice (clearly from a position of complete ignorance), that I simply don’t bother engaging anymore. Which I think is a real shame. Be careful when taking advice.

• Whilst swimming with a ‘buddy’ is a great idea, ensure you swim with a good buddy! I have some friends that are quite competitive. I’ll often swim with them and they have absolutely no awareness in the water of where I am and what I’m up to. If you’re swimming with someone, actually keep an eye on each other.

• Finally, I swam along the promenade in Penzance last summer by myself and a thought occurred to me. I was swimming at high tide in full view of the promenade for safety reasons. The thought was pretty straight forward and it was the following…if I had a random seizure, passed out or had cardiac event (which is about the only issue I would possibly have that I couldn’t deal with), firstly - would anyone on the promenade even notice? Second, how long would it take them to realise something was wrong with me? Finally, if they jumped in or called the emergency services, how long would that take and do they actually have the ability to either drag me out or administer first aid? I’d probably be face down in the water and I’d be brain damaged or worse within 2-3 minutes. Which begs the question…why am I swimming along the promenade? The point I’m making is that swimming with someone that can take the appropriate course of action should something go wrong, is pretty important. If you swim with someone very regularly, or simply swim regularly it’d be well worth doing some sort of first aid course.

• Following on from the above point is the part about rescue. We were taught this back in my lifeguarding days. If someone is in trouble and you don’t realistically think you can get them out or handle the conditions then you really have to think about whether or not you go in to try and assist. It’s far easier and safer for the appropriate rescue services to rescue and assist one person, than it is for two!

Below you’ll find a great video on rip currents and how they work.

Safe Swimming in surf and on the beach

Whilst having a chat with the Sea Swim Cornwall team (including our part-timers) we realised that we have over 50 seasons of beach lifeguarding experience between us! Mainly in Cornwall but also seasons spent in Australia, India and a few other locations!

From here we decided to put together a straight forward open water swimming safety guide. In it we dispel some common myths people have around sea swimming, we look at rip currents, how to spot rip currents, how to swim out of a rip current, reading the sea and conditions…

We’ve priced our safe swimming guide at just 49p (with any other purchase) or you can buy a multi-pack…for yourself, family and friends. It is a lightweight guide, so we would recommend either laminating it or sticking it in a waterproof bag and then leaving it in your kit bag.

The guide obviously won’t guarantee your safety but there are lots of common sense suggestions and advice that should keep you out of trouble! Available for purchase or given out on our beach water safety courses, which we’re rolling out in April. Either book individually or as a private group.

CHECK OUT THE GUIDE - CLICK HERE